chateau de chillon, switzerland

Posted by torytolles | Filed under Switzerland

My torrid love affair with Chateau de Chillon began in July with its picture on page 157 of The Lonely Planet’s guide to Switzerland. The castle’s seductive name became the answer to any question ranging from “What are you most excited for about Europe?” to Chris’s frequent “What do you want to do this weekend?”. Housing predicaments and inclement weather prevented us from fulfilling this fantasy until two weeks ago. Since then we have moved and enjoyed our first Parisian adventure - details to follow in subsequent (and imminent) posts.

At long last, Chris and I were seated on a train hurtling past Lake Geneva on the right and vineyard after vineyard on the left. Chris was obviously worried and he tenderly reminded me of my post-Green Gables depths of disappointment: “Chillon is just an old building, after all.” True, the giant highway seen above did not do much for the ambiance, but the enormous Swiss Alps beyond more than made up for it. This photo is taken from the castle’s keep (see below).

Chris need not have worried. Our self-guided tour began in the dungeons. Contrary to my expectations, they were possibly my favorite part. As Chillon was built on an island of rock in the 11th century, we could often see the island peek through the foundation - the dark bits on the floor in the photo above are part of the actual island the castle is built upon!

Paradoxically, the dungeons were also a source of inspiration: one prisoner painted this intense crucifixion scene (dated c. 1200 AD) during his imprisonment. Famously, Lord Byron popularized the chateau’s dungeon with his poem about the imprisoned Genevan monk and politician, François de Bonivard.

This is the ring to which de Boulevard was allegedly chained until he was freed by invading Bernese forces in 1536. Some people claimed that they could see his footsteps around the column, but the fact that the ring actually wore away parts of the column could not be denied.

I kept returning to this doorway, through which the executioners threw the dead bodies after they were hung. More romantically, one duke escaped through this secret back door when the Bernese were attacking the castle on the other side.

Chillon’s fortifications were such that it was not clear why the Savoyards acquiesced Chillon so quickly. This tall building, the keep, was at the centre of the castle. It was designed such that if the castle were attacked, it was possible for everyone to climb into this impenetrable tower and pull up the ladder and drawbridge behind them. If you look carefully, you can see the three architectural stages of the keep.

To further demonstrate the differences between Chris and me, Chris was obsessed with the incredible paneled ceilings in the grand halls…

…and I could not get over the latrines. Fist of all, you cannot tell it in this picture but there are two holes right next to each other so archeologists postulate that going to the bathroom was an intimately communal affair. Secondly, these toilets are built in a room that extends out past the exterior wall of the castle so that whatever may be deposited drops right into the lake. Finally, these openings could have posed a security threat so it was military strategy to dump nastier items down the holes in the event of an attack. Can you imagine being the soldier who is ordered to swim through the frigid lake, climb the poop-encrusted wall, only to have scalding water or acid dumped on you? Yuck.

Permalink | October 10th, 2008

9 Responses to “chateau de chillon, switzerland”

Katie J Says:
October 10th, 2008 at 11:07 pm
Wow! Incedible chateau! Tory, make sure to eat lots of crepes in Paris. They are sooo good. Much better than any American “creyp” I’ve ever had.
Reply - Quote

Cathy Schopp Says:
October 11th, 2008 at 11:40 am
I am vicariously enjoying your trip, Tory and Chris, especially as you head to familiar territory! The pictures are beautiful. Bon voyage!
Reply - Quote

miranda Says:
October 11th, 2008 at 12:00 pm
nice photos! thanks for gory details, they lend lots to the imagination.
Reply - Quote

tom Says:
October 12th, 2008 at 3:22 pm
Thanks for the update, T^2. Keep ‘em coming!
Reply - Quote

Alix Says:
October 12th, 2008 at 6:40 pm
AAAaa! I went here! My family loved it so much we spent all day there and then we went back the next day. I was pretty into the latrines and the crazy weaponry they had on display.
Reply - Quote

dory Says:
October 14th, 2008 at 2:10 am
THATS SO COOL. im getting kind of claustrophobic just thinking about having to climb up the latrine
Reply - Quote

Brooke Says:
October 14th, 2008 at 8:58 am
I miss you guys a ton! These photos are awesome!
Also, Tory, thank you for the BBC article about the guy who reads dictionaries. That was pretty sweet.
Reply - Quote